Workshop and Custom
Fins and Handle included
The cores of our kiteboards are made of paulownia, a light, long-fiber wood that grows back quickly. These properties are ideal for board building and at the same time a good step in terms of sustainability. The board gets its strength from a glass or carbon laminate, which is pressed with the core by vacuum infusion - with 10 tons of pressure. An impact-resistant plastic edge along the outline also protects the board from bumps and gives you the opportunity to choose a colored frame around your board. When it comes to design, we say: let off steam! We support you with a variety of extraordinary methods, tools and materials to make your kiteboard unique. The basis for this is always the visible wooden core, which, if left untreated, results in a simple, aesthetic wooden board. In order to tailor the riding characteristics of your board exactly to you, we adjust the "adjusting screws" outline, rocker, concave, flex for your best. In the workshop you will experience our full knowledge about it and of course we will advise you on every point.
We prepare a few steps for you so that you can finish your board in one weekend and take it with you right away. For this we clarify in advance which board size and outline suits your riding style, taste and body weight and which color the edge of your board will be. You should have given a few thoughts to your design in advance. But keep in mind: you do this by hand, so come up with a realistic design or plan another day of construction.
We are going to help you with this but its important that you have a idea of what it is your hoping to achieve. Spend time looking at what you would like to see on your board and lets make you dream come true. Please note we need to finalize graphics before you come to the workshop.
At the start of the workshop, we prepared the wooden cores for your wishes. To do this, we mill a wide groove along the later outline and fill it with a special and very impact-resistant plastic, which we can pigment according to your desired color. We also cut the glass / carbon fibers for you.
The goal for the day is that you have finished designing your board and that we have pressed it according to the settings that best support your riding style.
At the beginning you make the blind holes for the inserts with the router. All stops are set so that you cannot drill too deep. Since the screw spacing of many pads are different, you should know which ones you want to mount on your board later. If you need a new one, we also have our own pads, straps and fins with our label here that fit every board.
Now it's time to design, there are many ways to do this and together we will look for the method that best suits your idea. The basis is always the visible wood, simple and natural. For example, if you would like to emphasize the grain, you can flame the wood with a Bunsen burner.
If you want to bring color into play, you can work with special acrylic paints on the wood or on the fibers. Designing directly on the wooden core offers the possibility of taping the edge so that it can later run around the board as a frame. When designing on the fibers, the colors come out a little more radiant.
In order to create exact shapes, we have a foil plotter with which we can cut stencils, which is quick and easy. The results when fabrics are pressed in the board are also interesting. Especially colorful patterns create a beautiful effect, thin cotton cloths are ideal for this.
If you would like to have a multicolored picture in large format on your board, we can have a printed textile made. However, we have to order this two weeks before the workshop and costs 50 euros per page. For this we need the corresponding picture with sufficient resolution from you.
At the end of the first day, we adjust the rocker table according to your desired curvature. We can also adjust the intensity of the monoconcave across the direction of travel and adjust the hardness of your board (flex) via the layer structure of the fibers. We press the boards with a so-called vacuum infusion. This is rocket technology and guarantees a very light board without air pockets in the laminate.
The second day starts with unpacking. Then it is sawn, drilled, milled, sanded and painted.
The moment of demoulding is always exciting. Before your board consisted of many individual parts and now they are all finally married to each other. But before we devote ourselves to the rest of the work, we clean the rocker tables and dismantle them again.
Step by step you are now getting closer to the finished board. You can open the laminated inserts, in which pads and loops will later be mounted, with a fine drill and bring them into the usual shape with a countersink. You can remove the excess along the outline with the jigsaw. The exact outline is worked out in the next step.